Racing Lines No.219 hits the shelves soon!

RLPic

It’s that time of the month again, no not that time, time for the latest edition of Racing Lines Magazine to hit newsstands around Australia.

  • Auto Alley Looks at the Kyosho Fazer VE Porsche 918 and Latrax SST as well as other new releases in the RC world.
  • The Testbench looks at the new Hitec Lynx 4S radio
  • RC History examines Vintage RC Musings from the Castle Hill Vintage Festival 2014
  • Living the Dream talks to Mat Griffin
  • The Helion Dominus is Thrashed in a review (It looks like is as good as the Helion Criterion I will be posting a review of soon)
  • The Team Associated B44.3 is also given a once over in a thorough review
  • Tech Talk looks at first impressions of the Associated B44.3 as well with a focus on the Centre Differential which is making it’s way into 1:10 buggies in the HB D413 and Associated B44.3 instead of the conventional slipper clutch.
  • And the Racing News has reports from the latest events around the country.

It’s a good edition, so pick up your copy from your favorite newsagent today.

A Car guy taking to the Air?

I am unashamedly a Car guy, in 1:1 scale and anything smaller.  Ironically my interest in RC originally laid in aircraft, but the devastating damage a crash could reap, well it put me off a little.  I saw some fantastic boats one year in Hobart as well, but again, once out of battery, fuel or radio range, problems with a significant investment.  However I saw some Stadium Trucks running around in a hall in Devonport one day and that was it.  Mind you it did take me over a decade to actually have one of my own in the end.

A few years ago I was given a three channel Venom Alpine Rescue coaxial helicopter.  It is a reasonable size, and I really must dust it off again.  I was trying to learn to fly it, but a radio problem made the first flight rather exciting, and I was a little cautious about it after that.  However a little over a year back I was given a basic micro coaxial helicopter as a secret santa present (a UDI R/C U807 to be precise) and it was a truly fun craft to fly, and I kinda got the bug for flying back a little.  Looking at a Quad shootout on Bigsquid RC some of the smaller quads which could mount a camera gave that interest a little poke again, and as a photographer it piqued my interest in a number of ways.

Then I made the mistake of looking what was available out there, and wow is there some choice! From the little Ethos HD and FPV to the bigger Blade QX350 range where the camera quality takes another leap forward, up to the DJI Phantom and Walkera QR X350 and the incredible Scout X4 from Walkera. The possibilities seem endless, and so does the ability to spend money on these vehicles!  The FPV and Aerial Photography capability many of these units have set my mind to working out how to pay for one through my Photography business, although I mostly do Weddings, and I don’t think that’s a good mix!

Still, you might see my flights of fancy appear on this page once and a while, and realistically I should start on a smaller Quad to get the hang of it, but you never know, I might just jump up to a 350 quad with FPV instead . So hopefully you won’t take to the occasional Aerial post with too much disdain, you never know, it just might take your flight of fancy.

GCM Racing improving the Vaterra Ascender

It didn’t take long for aftermarket parts for the Ascender to start appearing. This combo is from GCM Racing

Scale trucks require scale looks, and this includes interior details. The Ascender kit already has a frame mounted servo, and great body details, but only the GCM Combo Kit allows the builder to include a full custom interior and still retain the stock Ascender components.

Each Ascender Combo Kit includes a front motor/trans mount that replaces the stock motor plate, and re-uses the stock hardware. The front motor plate mounts between the front shock towers, replacing the crossbar that’s included in the stock kit. The transmission screws to the frame on the left side with a new screw (included) through the left back shock tower hole, making the assembly super strong and ready to take any beating. The re-location of these components easily clears the stock suspension links for full travel. The Ascender 86t spur gear requires a very small frame notch between the right side shock tower (as shown in this picture) but the Twin Hammer 78t spur gear does not require this modification (if you’re using a 2 speed transmission swap).

The center of the truck needs a Transfer Case when the transmission moves up front, and for this task we’ve added the tested-and-true GCM 1:1 Transfer Case for maintenance free long lasting operation, and common 5mm output shafts. The Transfer case mounts to a new cradle, which clips into the left frame rail, and attaches from the bottom with 2 of the stock transmission screws in the original holes. It’s a very simple cradle, with rock solid mounting, and even includes a mini servo mount so you can mount a shift servo for the 2 speed option!

Center driveshafts from the Ascender are too short, so we’ve added an option (when available) to add a package of VTR232070 driveshafts so you can extend your plastic stock center shafts. This is done with a female-male-female setup, where the female ends are on the axle and T-Case, and the male slider fits in between the 2 female ends for a complete setup.

If you’re looking for high performance, then we recommend the MIP14295 steel shaft set, which do work well on the GCM Combo Kit parts, but works even better with a slightly shorter shock extension (100mm). The stock 109mm shock extension does make the shafts a bit wobbly at full droop, but they won’t fall out.

There’s a need for an intermediate shaft from the Trans to the T-Case with the combo kit, and we’ve added an option (when available) for a dual universal rock solid center intermediate shaft to connect the drivetrain with all steel parts. If you want to make up your own center shaft using Vaterra or SCX truck parts, then you’ll need a shaft that’s 67mm long, or this RC4wd shaft works well.

Please see this assembly video (coming soon) for more details.

Each Kit includes the following parts:
Front motor/trans mount-Black finish
Motor mount hardware and trans attachment bolt
Center Cradle and servo mount-Black finish
Servo mount screws
GCM 1:1 Transfer Case Complete Kit-Black finish
Mount hardware for T-Case

Source: http://gcmracing.ca/viewitem.php?productid=141

SCT Tyre Gluing 101

Ok, new SCT for me means I have to glue more tyres (different hex so I couldn’t keep the old ones), and tyres means tyre gluing, which I am not great at.  RC Driver posted a great tutorial back in 2012 that I must read again, but for average joe out there, i’ll re-post the article for all to see.  The original is at http://rcdriver.com/short-course-tire-mounting-101/

Short Course Tire Mounting 101

Short Course Tire Mounting 101

Mounting tires is nothing new; mounting them the correct way is a whole different story. While there is, I’m sure, hundreds of different tire mounting articles out there, this subject is always safe to revisit with all the new easy-to-use technology out there to get the job done. I’ve put together a short How To regarding the mounting of 1/10th scale Short Course tires.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 1
1. Get Your Kicks
For this article I will be using a set of Panther’s Rattlers, their new Orange Closed-Cell Foam SC Inserts and a set of Losi SC wheels. Additional items include Panther’s Tire Bands, AKA glue, motor spray and some CompetitionX Gloo Toobs.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 2
2. Prepping the Tires
When the tires are created, they are coated with a chemical release agent that helps them separate from the mold. This chemical can sometimes interfere with the bonding of the tire and wheel. Take a clean rag, shoot some motor spray onto it and clean both the inside and outside beads of the tire. You can also repeat this procedure on the wheels.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 3
3. Insert the Insert
Take your insert, fold it over and squeeze it into the tire. Open it up so that it forms to the inside of the tire as shown. This process is easy with any closed cell foam insert but can be a little more tricky with a standard foam insert. Just take your time and it will fit. Trust me.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 4
4. Mount the Tire
You’ll notice that your SC wheel is smaller on the face of it than on the back. Insert the wheel from the BACK of the tire, pushing it through until you can seat the rear of the tire into the rear bead of the wheel. The picture above shows two examples; the one of the left is correct, the one on the right is janky. Don’t be janky.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 5
5. Mount the Tire Part Deux
Now that you have the backside of the tire seated, flip the tire/wheel over and correctly seat the front side of the tire. Again, the left is correct, the right is janky. Note: if you are using the standard open-cell foam inserts, this part may be a bit more tedious. Show some patience and it will work itself out. No throwing your tires around the room.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 6
6. Tire Bands
Panther’s Tire Bands are a wonderful invention. They allow you to glue tires while keeping pressure on the assembly, ensuring a nice, firm bond. Small integrated tabs allow you to easily position them wherever you need to. They’re available for 1/8th scale, 1/10th scale offroad (as seen here), and 1/10th Touring Car. You could use rubber bands, tape, Velcro or any other McGyver method, but you just won’t look as professional as you would with these. Go get some. I’ll wait.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 7
7. Wrap ‘em Up
Stretch your Panther Tire Bands over your tire and position near the edge of the face of the tire as shown. Those little tabs come in handy now, don’t they? Since the Bands come in a pack of 4, you might as well wrap all 4 tires now.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 8
8. Gloo ‘em Up
Get your glue out and insert a gluing tube into the tip of the bottle. What, don’t have any gluing tips? Oh, this is going to be messy…unless you happen to have a couple CompetitionX Gloo Toobs handy. These little gems slip into the tip of your glue bottle and make gluing an absolute joy. Use these to flow a precise stream of glue in the bead of your tire/wheel assembly. Once you’re done with the front, set it aside and let it dry. After a few minutes you can flip the tire/wheels over, re-position the Panther Tire Band and repeat the gluing process for the back side.

How To: Short Course Tire Mouting 101 - Step 9
9. Pro-Glue Job
Look at that glue job. Man you’re going to make your track mates jealous. They’re all going to want you to glue their tires! Once their dry, remove the bands and mount ‘em up. They should stay super-glued to the wheels, no matter what type of insane horsepower you’re running!

Other than a different set of tire bands (a few different versions are available from Panther). you can use this procedure to mount any type of tires.

Postie arrived with a Team Durango Present

photoI was lucky enough to catch the postie this morning before heading to work.  Lucky because he arrived bearing gifts for me, my new DESC210R kit from Tower Hobbies. I know there is probably a new V2 version on the way, but as I have the original DEX210 the parts commonality will be helpful, as well as the price on tower being a staggeringly low $160 USD. Why so low, well as I said before, a V2 is on the way! Talking to local Team Durango Driver Leo Lorenzen, Tower sold out of the cheap kits less than a week after I ordered and they have been marked as Discontinued (although not on the TD website yet), for once I was able to take advantage of a good deal which I normally manage to miss out on.

I suppose it’s a little bittersweet as this purchase marks a transition for me from being in the HPI camp, to my race vehicles all being Team Durango, but it’s not such a bad thing really as I ave been very impressed with the one Durango I have.

So keep your eyes peeled for photos from the build, and later on a report of how it goes on the track etc.

New clothes for the HPI WR8

HPI has released a new body for the WR8 Platform to compliment the Fiesta body that it ships with, and it’s a Subaru Body, brilliant! They are GRC flavoured, but come clear.  So now Ken Block, Bucky Lasek and Sverre Isachsen all have bodies for the WR8 platform.

Turn your HPI Racing WR8 FLUX or Nitro 3.0 into a Subaru WRX STI Rallycross machine with the Subaru WRX STI Bucky Lasek WR8 clear option body (#113239) or the Subaru WRX STI Sverre Isachsen WR8 clear option body (#113240). Complete the package with the WR8 replica Method Rallycross wheels (#113688 – Bucky Orange or #113689 – Sverre Yellow).

#113239 SUBARU WRX STI BUCKY LASEK BODY (WR8)
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113239

#113240 SUBARU WRX STI SVERRE ISACHSEN BODY (WR8)
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113240

#113688 WR8 METHOD RALLYCROSS WHEEL 35MM ORANGE
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113688

#113689 WR8 METHOD RALLYCROSS WHEEL 35MM YELLOW
http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113689

HPI Q32 Baja Buggy

Want a Baja but don’t have the space? Well the latest model in the Baja line is a little, well, smaller! Originally Named the Cue when it was first previewed, but now the Q32 Baja, this pint sized racer is packed with features at a low price point, and size!

Now everyone can enjoy the Baja, indoors and out, on tabletops and floors and anywhere you like! The Q32 chassis is the smallest member of the HPI family, and it’s a fun way to get your RC fix on rainy days or when you’re stuck in the office! Fitted with grippy foam tires and a direct rear-wheel drivetrain, it’s light, nimble and FAST! At just 109mm (4.3″) in length and 76mm (2.9″) wide, it’s ideal for racing in the smallest of spaces! We’ve also included 8 corner markers and even a cool mini-ramp to get you started making your own custom race courses! The Q32 features awesome “Real Steer”, which means the car drives just like a larger RC car!

For more details visit HPI at http://www.hpiracing.com/en/kit/114060

“ROAR and IFMAR Should Look at Their Rulebooks and Start Crossing Some Stuff Out”

“ROAR and IFMAR Should Look at Their Rulebooks and Start Crossing Some Stuff Out” isn’t the title of my article, but rather that of an interview between Radio Control Car Action and  Orange County RC Raceway’s outspoken owner, Robert Black.

The full interview can be found on their website here http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2014/11/10/roar-and-ifmar-should-look-at-their-rulebooks-and-start-crossing-some-stuff-out/

It presents some interesting opinions, and thoughts with regards to a needed clean out of old, unused our outdated rules.  In Australia many of our rules either follow or are based on one of these rule sets, in other areas they have evolved on their own over time with AARCMCC being the largest Sanctioning body (but not the only one) in Australia.

I’m not saying we need to throw out the rule book, but a fresh look at it once in and a while is worthwhile.  Look at 1:8 GP off road, there was some fairly large rule changes proposed recently that the clubs mostly voted against.  However the problem there was an all or none approach where a yes or no vote was the only options to some significant changes.  Almost all of the proposed changes were well received, however one fiscal one that made affiliation more expensive for clubs by a significant factor was a sticking point for many clubs.

If it had been broken down into two or three parts the majority of changes would have been carried.  Nobody likes change for changes sake, but you need to give people time to digest the changes one at a time, not throw a whole new book at them. I hope the proposal is re written and re submitted for voting once again because a lot of the ideas would certainly move things forward in terms of professionalism and the way that the sport is perceived. People just prefer to see such changes in smaller bites.