Every year different race classes in different parts of the country enjoy surges and waning in popularity. Stadium trucks have been around since the Tamiya Stadium Blitzer and RC10T graced on tracks around the world in the early 90’s however have not enjoyed popularity for some time.
Welcome to the first edition of Crash Tested. The review column where I will take an RC product thats new (to me) and go do my usual thing to see how it performs. There may be crashing, they’re may be winning (sometimes) but at the end, I have a verdict.
On my test bench I have a brand new Highest RCDLP750 low profile servo, aimed at 1/10 on road and off road vehicles in Highest RC’s regular fashion of good looks and impressive specs.
Build and specs
An aluminium top and middle case, with plastic bottom looks very nice in any car. That ‘full metal jacket’ look that everyone likes is mostly there on the DLP750, although slightly diminished due to the plastic bottom cover, but we can get over that once its installed in the car!
A Coreless motor and full metal internal gears puts it on the same level as its main competitors in the Futaba BLS571SV and Savox 1251mg, however its 51.6g weight makes it 10g heaver than the futaba and 7g heavier than the Savox, if you’re a stock racer who’s watching the scales closely, this may be a deal breaker for you.
What the DLP750 loses in weight, it makes up for in its torque and speed numbers, boasting 0.1s / 11.8kg-cm on 6.0V, and 0.08s / 14.3kg-cm on 7.4V, its a full head and shoulders above the Futaba at 0.08 / 11/0kg-cm on 7.4V, meanwhile the Savox only hits 0.09s / 9kg-cm at 6V (no specs given for 7.4V)
With a 25t spline to match up with Futaba and Savox users, plus plenty of extra torque and a flashy ‘Full Metal Jacket’ look, at the cost of 7-10g of weight? This servo looks to be a winner for most.
The testing comes at a perfect time, after last week I managed to knock a few teeth off the internal gears in my Savox 1251mg ‘Black Edition’, while I drove my Team Associated B6 around the indoor carpet track at Perth Radio Electric Car Club (PRECC). So it was time for a new servo to continue racing.
On Saturday I bolted the DLP750 into my B6, set the centre & endpoints, and threw the car down at PRECC. Right away the steering felt strong and more sensitive, even on 6.0V BEC .after turning a few laps I was feeling comfortable with the handling and pulled the car in to tinker with the BEC and try again.
After turning the BEC voltage up to 7.2 on my ORCA R32 ESC, i headed back out on track to see if I could truly tell the difference between alleged 11.8kg-cm and 14.3kg-cm of torque. Im happy to say that I have always struggled for steering on the tight carpet track at PRECC, however the increased torque made all the steering inputs happen in a flash, so much so I continued to crash into the apex pipes for the next 3 minutes while I tried to figure out the inputs I needed.
I settled down and added -5% expo into the steering before trying to set some fast laps, managing to steer harder meant I could cut tighter lines and change directions faster in the chicanes, a welcome addition to the small 13s layout! I bested my old hot lap from 13.63s to 13.28 s before the run finished. Enough proof to convince me this servo is up to the task!
To further cement my liking for the servo, during my final practice session I had a huge crash and tumble, which actually broke my modified (HB parts) steering linkage on the B6, but did not harm the servo at all.
If you want a servo with good looks, good specs and solid quality, at a decent price…then you should look no further than the Highest DLP-750 Low profile servo. At an advertised retail of $169.95 its not the cheapest servo on the market, but its still cheaper and looks nicer than its main competitor, the Futaba BLS571SV which would set you back $180+ at most Hobby Shops in Australia. Im very happy with the DLP750 in my B6, and I am definitely going to be putting one in my B64 4WD ahead of the upcoming IFMAR world championships in China!
The Highest RC range is now available at Hearns Hobbies in Melbourne, and Ryper Hobbies in Perth, thanks to the guys at Ryper for putting this one aside for me to purchase and test!
It is strange the things that motivate you sometimes, after racing at a major race meet on the weekend, and being perfectly happy with my RC Fleet, I find myself desiring a Stadium Truck once again after having a HPI E-Firestorm many years ago which had a number of modifications for racing, only to have nobody to race against!! Unfortunately Team Durango are no longer making their DEST210R truck, so maybe I need to convert my Short Course DESC210R with a few parts….
However this, combined with teasers of the new Xray XT2 Stadium Truck got me thinking about what is available out there, so let’s have a look! I’ll look at racing kits at this stage, I will cover RTR Stadium Trucks another day as there is a lot of them out there.
Now don’t be fooled into thinking that all stadium trucks are electric, this is far from the case with many nitro powered trucks appearing over the years and a few that are still available. Kyosho and HPI both still sell Nitro powered Stadium Trucks, they have just fallen from favor when 1:8 Truggies started taking center stage.
Now a little history for those who may not be aware, Stadium Trucks, often just referred to as trucks are based on 2wd buggies with truck bodies, wider arms, larger tyres and often longer chassis. And while that remains true of many of the original Stadium Trucks like the Tamiya Stadium Blitzer, the same remains true today.
Team Losi / TLR
So the current ST from TLR is the 22T 2.0 which is an upgrade from the original 22T released not so long ago as a part of the re invigoration of the Losi racing range under the TLR banner. Rear or mid motor mount is your choice in this kit in a very sleek design with a narrow (and not so spacious, chassis.
The newest Stadium Truck on the block, and the one about which we know the least! We presume it will be based on the XB2, and that is about all we know. When we know, you will know!
RC10T5M or the shorter name it is most commonly known by, T5M is the latest from Team Associated, however with the release of the B6 and B6D there may well be a new version out some time in the near future. This kit can trace it’s roots back to one of the original Team Associated Classics, the RC10T, and what a classic that is. Honestly with the original RC10 being re released, I am amased the RC10T has not followed suit.
The T4.2 however is also still available in it’s rear motor mount only setup, but as an RTR, so that is for another day. The T5M conversely is mid mount only so you really need to choose a kit to suit the surface that you are driving on, loose dirt or high traction clay or carpet/astroturf.
The Ultima RT6 is the latest truck from Kyosho released not too long after the new RB6 buggy. Kyosho design and quality is hard to go by if you can afford it. All in all a beautiful truck that has all the adjustment and tuning you could ever need. It almost goes without saying that Mid and Rear engine mount configurations can be built from this truck kit.
Team C isn’t a name you hear that often about the traps, but they do still sell a Stadium Truck in the form of the TC02T truck based once again from their buggy. Whilst it is a slightly older design than some of the other trucks available, it will still put a smile on your dial.
This one is slightly from left field, but X Factory have been making conversion kits for Team Associated cars for many years. Their X-60CF kit takes a T4 / 4.1 / 4.2 and turns converts it to the X Factory ST with a carbon fiber chassis and Mid motor configuration, something Associated only has done with the T5M recently.
Last but not least I do have to mention one sadly departed kit, the Team Durango DEST210R. Yes, I know that it is no longer in production, but I mention it because A) I hope a new version will appear, and B) because it was the first ST (correct me if I am wrong here) to come where you could choose a Mid or Rear mounted motor position right out of the box, and switch them as needed. Team Durango’s kits have been doing this since they released the DEX210 in 2011 and this feature has carried through to the Stadium Truck and Short Course Truck based on the same platform. As i’ve gotten back into ST’s I am thinking that I will buy the needed parts to convert my Short Course Durango into a Stadium Truck (Chassis, body and wheels), so i’ll let you know how that goes!
Firstly I thought it was an interesting side note to this release that the alternate version is the D (Dirt) rather than the namesake, the reverse of the B5 series where the B5 was a dirt car, and the B5M the mid mounted alternate if you like.
That said, the car certainly looks like a big step forward from the B5 which seemed more of an evolution of the B5 design. Either way, it’s always exciting to see new designs hitting the market, and it will be interesting to see them hit the tracks soon.
To see all the information and the new cars in action, check out the video from AE below
The last few weeks have seen new truggies from Team Associated and Team Losi Racing hit the internet, so I thought i’d round up a little on these two new machines. Ok, when I say two, it’s technically three as Associated released Nitro and Electric versions of their machines.
So what is a Truggy, basically a racing truck. Take a buggy, put wider arms, bigger tyres and a truck body on it and you have a truggy. So it’s not exactly as simple as that, but you get the gist of it. All are evolutions of old designs rather than anything revolutionary, however they all have some nice new features.
Ok, ok, I know that touring car racing is not dead, but there has been a significant increase in the number of cars designed to either cater to those wanting sideways action, or some social street driving or racing. Much like their crawling cousins, scale accessories and scale detail are also king in this arena of public opinion. However this new brand of on road driver has certainly resurrected some interest in On Road chassis.
Today’s release of two muscle cars from Kyosho on the Fazer platform, a 1970 Dodge Charger and a 2015 Dodge Challenger Hellcat are further evidence, and while I don’t know how these vehicles are selling, I certainly see a few around the place, and there is certainly a lot of chatter generated by them. Heck i’d be quite happy with one the the offerings on the Vaterra V100 platform or the new HPI RS4 Sport 3 platform (and I almost forgot the Team Associated Apex cars). All of these platforms have a number of attributes in common, great looking scale bodies, scale tyres and rims, basic shaft driven platforms and affordable pricing. This is fast turning into a what RC car to buy for street fun article, but I will resist!
Now none of these are what you would call drift vehicles despite being labeled as such and coming with hard tyres. Yes they do a decent job, but in my mind a drift car has to at least have an optional set of gearing to allow a Counter steer (or CS) conversion. What does that mean? Well the rear wheels turn faster than the front ones. Why? Because it’s easier to keep the car sideways, and who doesn’t like a bit of sideways action sometimes. None of the cars mentioned before have much in the way of adjustment either with all having fixed suspension links, but most have aftermarket or factory adjustable ones available to allow for some adjustment. That said, this keeps the price of these units down, and there is nothing like a car that is fun to drive, a decent price to buy and looks great as well. Personally I love how the BMW M3 and Subaru BRZ models on the HPI Sport 3 chassis look, but the 1969 Corvette from Vaterra looks amazing as well.
Many of this new breed of street cars also come with waterproof electronics, so even a rainy day isn’t able to keep you off the streets. About the only feature that I am a little disappointed is still on these cars is the ubiquitous post body mounts. Yes, they work well, but there are some great magnetic body mounts available today which eliminate the posts and give the car a much clearer look, but are still strong enough to stop the body coming off easily.
There is a whole range of chassis and bodies out there, and there are some offerings from Yokomo, MST and Sakura which are true drift chassis, but expect to be paying more than the cars we are discussing here today.
I guess what I am saying is don’t be a chassis snob, grab one of these budget street brawlers, grab some mates and go outside and have some fun! And because everybody loves some eye candy, here is a slide show of some of the offerings on sale at the moment.
PS, yes, I completely missed out on the Tamiya TT-01 and TT02 platforms, I could say I was focusing on new platforms, but the TT-02 is a new platform, Maybe i have a bit of tunnel vision, but check out the Tamiya cars as well as they have a huge range of cars and bodies available.
Completely designed from the ground up. The RC8B3 starts with a hard-anodized 7075-T6 aluminum chassis designed for optimum weight distribution, ground clearance, and better overall handling. As a result, the RC8B3 Team Kit changes directions faster, and is more compliant and stable in rough terrain.
World class suspension package. The RC8B3 has received an updated suspension that features a pillow-ball front upright for maximum steering and durability. Refined 16mm Big Bore hard-anodized aluminum threaded shocks and 3.5mm alloy shock shafts provide plush suspension travel. The RC8B3 features precision universal drive shafts front and rear to keep suspension travel free through the entire stroke.